Once upon a time, in the dear distant past (1965) I took a three week vacation to Europe. Mostly, I went to Bordeaux, with a couple of days stopover in London, then stayed in a motel in Le Lac outside the city with a rental car, and did my own thing for about 10 days.
At that time, nearly 50 years ago, Aquitaine was mostly rural, and I haven't been back since. So, let's see. I did the Michelin green guide walking tour of Bordeaux, then drove up to Perigeux and did the same. Around in here, I got a case of mal de voyage, and was stuck in my hotel room for a couple of days.
Then I found the Syndicat d'Initiative which, for some piffling amount, took you out to, as they put it, 'deux chais et un rocher', that is two wineries and one museum. Since I didn't have a lot of time, a guided tour was definitely in order. Got to places I wouldn't have easily found on my own: Lur Salices (Chateau d'Yquem) where I learned everything I wanted to know about this vintage Sauternes, and some wine industry inside information as well; Chateau Mouton Rothschild, which in addition to the chais runs a very interesting wine museum. The various tours took us to places well known and some rather obscure. One chais whose name escapes me at this distance in time produced a lovely red entre-deux-mers wine. I was so impressed, I ordered a case shipped home.
There was one real bust. We arrived at Chateau de Cadillac and learned to everyone's horror that the Intendant of Antiquities was visiting the chateau as well. This gentleman motor-mouthed for three hours in Langue d'Oui about the wonders of the fireplaces in that old chateau. I was having enough trouble with the local Langue d'Oc, and this threw me for an utter loop. Even the tour guides could find no way to get away.
Over all, Bordeaux is a city to visit for much more time than I had. I was there for the 'Festin de Vieux Bordeaux' which is really a street party for the locals after the end of the tourist season. This encouraged me to run down to Biarritz on the Spanish border for a look at the Landais pine forests where production of turpentine is in full swing. They tap the trees for resin the same way that maple trees are tapped at home.
One thing led to another and I hopped in my buggy, braving the A10 across Bordeaux, got on the N10 and headed for Angoulême. I was much impressed by the countryside of green fields, yellow cows, and white houses with red roofs. Gorgeous. At Angoulême, I turned left heading for Cognac, where I enjoyed a lunch at Le Coq d'Or followed by 3.3 cl of Chateau Jussac Cognac, of which I was told there was no further production. You can't miss this restaurant. It is right behind the bronze statue of a mounted King Francis I.
After lunch I essayed the rest of the road to the coast and the, then, quiet village of Arcachon, where I had a climb to the top of the Pilat Dune for a good look at the famous Phâre (Lighthouse), and the Basin d'Arcachon where oysters are produced in quantity.
French friends have told me that Arcachon is now a hide away for the rich and famous, so that my experience is one that can only be in memory now.
There is a small art museum on the main street of Bordeaux. It has a large collection of Titians, and if you want to be impressed with his use of colour, I strongly recommend it.
My final French experience was Air Inter to Orly where we were bussed to Charles de Gaulle. Air France home was an interesting experience.
